Author: ssartino

We’ll cut straight to the point: No, the energy savings alone most likely won’t make purchasing the 17-SEER air conditioner over a 14-SEER worth it. 

All other things being equal, a 3-ton, 17-SEER air conditioner will likely save you just $66/year in cooling costs over the same size 14-SEER air conditioner (see our calculations below). So even with the $300 federal tax credit, the 17-SEER air conditioner is unlikely to pay for the price difference over its lifespan. So why do we think you should you still consider the more expensive 17-SEER unit? Well, because…

Higher SEER often means better comfort

A higher efficiency 17-SEER air conditioner usually comes with 2-stage cooling and a variable-speed fan. These features not only improve the energy efficiency of the unit, but provide better cooling than the 14-SEER AC can provide.

You see, a standard air conditioner has only 2 modes: on and off. But a 2-stage air conditioner with a variable-speed fan can meet your cooling needs about 80% of the time with its lower setting, meaning it will run more often, but at a lower setting and without as many starts and stops.

This has 2 benefits:

• Fewer hot/cold spots. The longer run times help the air in your home mix better and provides more even temperature control throughout your home.
• Less humidity. Running longer helps the air conditioner remove twice as much moisture/humidity from your air. And that’s a big deal in Atlanta!

“But won’t longer run times actually mean higher cooling costs?”

Good question, but no. Like a car, an air conditioner costs less to operate when it stops and starts less often. Each time the AC starts up, it costs more because of the greater energy needed to start up.

Now, here’s how we calculated the energy savings of the 17-SEER air conditioner vs. the 14-SEER:

1. Calculate the estimated amount of energy each air conditioner will use annually using this equation:

[(Size of AC system x 12,000) / SEER] x 1500 = amount of Watt-hours used annually

So with 14-SEER and 17-SEER options, we get:

• 14-SEER= 3,857,000 Watts/hour (rounded to nearest thousand)
• 17-SEER= 3,176,000 Watts/hour (rounded to nearest thousand)

2. Subtract the 17-SEER AC’s annual energy use from the 14-SEER’s. 

That’s: 3,857,000-3,176,000=699,000 Watts/hour

3. Convert step 2’s number to kWh by dividing by 1000.

699,000/1000=699 kWh

4. Multiply step 3’s number by your electricity rate. In Birmgingham, the average electricity rate is around 9.4 cents/kWh.

699 x $.094= $65.71

So, for a 3-ton air conditioner in Atlanta, a 17-SEER unit can save you around $66/year when compared to a 14-SEER unit.

Assumptions

Every energy-saving estimation has some built-in assumptions. Here are ours:

• You’re replacing both the outside unit and indoor air handler/blower. This is called a matched system and it’s the only way to get the advertised SEER ratings.
• Your home doesn’t have any major duct issues. The air conditioner is only part of a system that includes your ductwork. If your current ducts are undersized or leaking, you won’t see a lot of actual savings from a more efficient AC.
• The air conditioners being quoted are the correct size for your home. If the air conditioners are too large or too small for your home, you won’t get the stated efficiency of the AC units.
• The air conditioners will be installed correctly. If not installed correctly, the air conditioning system will lose efficiency.
• You will run your air conditioner about 1500 hours/year. This is pulled from the average for the Atlanta area given in the Department of Energy’s calculator.

The Consequences of Buying a Cheaper Air Conditioning System:

John Ruskin (1819-1900), British philosopher and artist wrote, “It is unwise to pay too much, but it’s unwise to pay too little… when you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing you bought it to do.” This holds true today, and here are some of the consequences of paying too little:

• High heating and cooling bills
• Shortened equipment life
• Frequent breakdowns
• Comfort problems
• Unsafe operation
• General frustration and, overall, poor return on investment

Let us help you with your maintenance needs today.

Cost of common AC repairs

• Replace evaporator coil: $860–$2,500
• Replace compressor: $870–$2,500
• Replace blower motor: $340–$820
• Replace condenser fan motor: $240–$775
• Replace circuit board: $230–$875
• Diagnose and repair refrigerant leak: $235—$1,600

AC brands we repair

We repair all major AC brands, including:

• Trane
• Goodman
• Carrier
• Lennox
• Daikin
• American Standard

DIY AC fixes

Try these easy fixes before calling a pro.

Is your AC not working at all?

• Change the thermostat batteries. If your thermostat batteries are dead, your unit won’t run.
• Check your breaker. Check to make sure your circuit breaker isn’t tripped. Sometimes all it takes is pushing the breaker back to the ON position.
• Make sure your vents are open. If you’re not getting any air flow, check to make sure a supply vent (the vents that push out cool air) didn’t accidentally get closed.

Is your AC blowing warm air?

• Check the thermostat switch. Check to make sure your thermostat is switched to “COOL” and not “HEAT”. (It might sound obvious, but this happens.)
• Change your air filter. A dirty filter can cause a lot of AC problems. If yours is dirty, replace it with a new one.
• Clean the outdoor unit. Remove any leaves, sticks or other debris from the condenser coils on your outdoor unit. If you see a thick layer of dirt on the coils, you’ll need a pro to clean them (they’re very fragile).

If you tried these fixes and your unit still isn’t working right, it’s time to call a professional.

Thinking of upgrading to a tankless water heater? Before doing so, learn the pros and cons of installing one – cost, requirements, and maintenance.

If it’s time to replace your water heater, you may be thinking of installing a tankless model in your home. To help you make the right decision about which kind to install, we’ll explain how tankless water heaters work and point out some of their advantages and disadvantages.

How Tankless Water Heaters Work

Tankless water heaters — also known as demand-type, on-demand or instantaneous water heaters — heat water directly, without the need to store water. A tankless heater has a flow sensing device that is activated whenever a hot water tap is opened. The unit then heats the water using either a gas burner or an electric element and directs the water wherever it’s needed in your home. Since there’s no tank that must be replenished, you don’t have to worry about running out of hot water. Once you close the hot water tap, the unit senses that the flow of water has stopped and shuts off the heating element.

Advantages Of Tankless Water Heaters

• They are smaller than conventional storage heaters, are wall mounted and do not take up floor space. Their size can make them particularly attractive in homes where square footage is at a premium.
• They can help you save on your energy costs. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, heating water accounts for about 30 percent of a family’s energy bills. Using a tankless water heater can reduce these costs by up to 50 percent, for an average annual savings of $80.
• They are durable and less likely to fail, causing potentially catastrophic flooding in your home. Tankless units have an average lifespan about twice that of conventional water heaters — 20 years or more.

Disadvantages Of Tankless Water Heaters

• Tankless units are more expensive. An electric tankless unit will cost about $500 to $700, roughly the same as a traditional tank model, while the cost of a gas tankless heater runs about $1,000 to $1,200. Beyond the initial cost, the national average for the installation of a tankless unit is slightly over $1,700. In many cases, existing piping must be extended or relocated, and for a gas unit, a safe vent must be installed to prevent carbon monoxide from accumulating inside the home. Even when taking savings in energy bills into account, it takes many homeowners about 20 years to fully recoup these expenses.
• “Tankless” does not mean “instant hot water.” Contrary to popular thought, a tankless water heater does not necessarily deliver hot water to your tap any faster than a conventional water heater. In fact, a tankless unit may be slower. It takes time for the tankless unit’s heating element to first heat water before delivering it to the tap.
• The flow of hot water is limited by the unit’s capacity to heat the water. Typically, hot water flows from a tankless heater at the rate of 2-5 gallons per minute, and that may not be enough for several simultaneous uses of hot water in your household. For example, taking a shower and running the dishwasher at the same time might stretch a tankless water heater to its limit. If you live in a multi-person household, compare tankless models, paying particular attention to the gallons per minute (GPM) flow of each model. The more people and the more simultaneous usage possibilities, the greater the GPM needs to be. One solution is to install multiple tankless units to meet the demands of a large household, but that can become very expensive.
• During power outages, tankless units will not produce hot water. Unlike conventional water heaters, there is no backup hot water source during these emergency situations.
• Tankless units are susceptible to failure due to hard water. Hard water is problematic for all water heaters but especially for tankless units. They should be drained entirely and their filters replaced monthly. They also need to be flushed on a regular basis. (Tank units need only be flushed every year or so.) If you don’t take these steps, hard water can destroy a tankless water heater in only about two years. Also, failure to follow these maintenance requirements can void the manufacturer’s warranty.
• Tankless units are complicated. Examine the internal workings of a typical tankless unit. You can quickly see how much could potentially go wrong with all the intricate technology tankless water heaters employ.